While in Santo Domingo Square, we happened upon a wedding, or rather, it happened upon us. I saw a couple of giant puppets processing towards us in the distance, obviously Bride and Groom puppets. The groom puppet looked oddly caucasian, which made more sense as they got closer and we saw that the groom actually was a caucasian, being ritually subsumed into a very rich cultural tradtion through his betrothal to a Oaxacan woman.
This was no waspy wedding. Women with large headresses and flowing skirts led the procession with the bouncing puppets, and a spinning Tiliche dancer, while a phalanx of musicians played with the wedding party following. The procession stopped in the street right in front of the cafe we were at, and everyone would dance to the same song on repeat for like 15 minutes, and then they processed to another spot, and another, and another, dancing the whole time.
It seemed almost like a show for the tourists in its level of spectacle, but it was just a wedding, full of exhuberance and celebration. It was easy to get caught up in.
The ubiiquitous plethora of art in Oaxaca is somewhat overwhelming, so I will just focus on one museum: The Rufino Tamayo Museum of Pre Hispanic Art. Renowned Zapotec artist Rufino Tamayo and his wife Olga founded the museum to stop ancient artifacts from being sold and smuggled through illicit markets. Tamayo’s core vision was to display pre-Columbian relics based on their aesthetic power, shape, and originality, rather than focusing strictly on their historical or religious contexts.
I really appreciate that perspective when looking at ancient art: The aesthtic power in and of itself.
There is very often a condescending attitude taken when displaying prehistoric art. Kind of like, “Isn’t it cute that these savages can actually make things. It gives us excellent insight into their silly beliefs and customs.”
Personally, I am struck by the aesthtic power way more than the symbology or historical context, and I appreciate that this museum displayed the artifacts with that intention.
Side note: It took 3 of us to haul Amie up the stairs in the wheelchair (thanks museum guards!). It was smooth sailing,…unitl she had to come down again.
The Food! Pretty fantastic. I will leave you with this: Criollo is a mind blowingly good restaurant with a multi-course meal that I highly recommend (Not cheap, but worth it.) Also, a 30 min. taxi ride out into the Oaxacan countryside is Don Agave….Go for the Mescal tour and a 7 bottle tasting, but the food is even better. Almost equal to Criollo. Also, street tacos…..sample a bunch, and don’t be afraid of getting sick. We never did, and we ate everywhere.
Thanks for coming along! moodysteffon@gmail.com